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Estimation of upper-body joint moments in climbing training tasks
Licence CC BYⓘ
Mis en ligne le 06/08/2025
Résumé
Competitive climbing has evolved significantly, with increasing emphasis on dynamic and complex movements, leading to higher physical demands on athletes. Understanding the mechanical loading of the upper body during climbing-related movements is crucial for performance optimization and injury prevention. This study aims to quantify and compare shoulder and elbow joint loads in three overhead dynamic exercises commonly used in climbing training: pull-ups, dynamic campus moves, and static campus moves with arm lock-off. Using OpenSim, joint angles and net joint moments were estimated through Inverse Kinematics (IK) and Inverse Dynamics (ID) workflows. Statistical analyses were conducted to compare joint loading patterns.
Results indicate that high loads in static trials are observed in the supporting hand in the shoulder extension/flexion plane. The supporting hand is required to handle most of the bodyweight during the static lock-off and reach-up phase. In dynamic trials, the highest loads in the pull-up phase occur in the reaching hand in the shoulder extension/flexion, to produce momentum and swing to perform the following reach-up dynamically and unload the supporting hand. In the dynamic reach-up phase, the reaching hand needs to control the generated swing again when it catches the upper hold, which creates large moments in shoulder external/internal rotation and elbow supination/pronation. The highest elbow joint loads are found in the supporting hand of static campus moves during the reaching phase.
These findings give an overview about the joint moments associated with different climbing training tasks and points out that static lock-offs, as well as dynamic campus moves, lead to high joint loads, compared to pull-ups and static hangs. Comparing maximal moments acting on the shoulder and elbow joints during static and dynamic campus moves, both show high moments, only at different times during the movement and for different reasons. This information gives a basis for further research in the climbing sport and may help in developing optimized individual training and injury prevention strategies for climbers.
Results indicate that high loads in static trials are observed in the supporting hand in the shoulder extension/flexion plane. The supporting hand is required to handle most of the bodyweight during the static lock-off and reach-up phase. In dynamic trials, the highest loads in the pull-up phase occur in the reaching hand in the shoulder extension/flexion, to produce momentum and swing to perform the following reach-up dynamically and unload the supporting hand. In the dynamic reach-up phase, the reaching hand needs to control the generated swing again when it catches the upper hold, which creates large moments in shoulder external/internal rotation and elbow supination/pronation. The highest elbow joint loads are found in the supporting hand of static campus moves during the reaching phase.
These findings give an overview about the joint moments associated with different climbing training tasks and points out that static lock-offs, as well as dynamic campus moves, lead to high joint loads, compared to pull-ups and static hangs. Comparing maximal moments acting on the shoulder and elbow joints during static and dynamic campus moves, both show high moments, only at different times during the movement and for different reasons. This information gives a basis for further research in the climbing sport and may help in developing optimized individual training and injury prevention strategies for climbers.
Informations
Auteur : Judith SATZINGER, Willi Koller, Arnold Baca, Hans Kainz, Juliana EXEL
Formation : L3 STAPS
Année du mémoire : 2025
Design méthodologique : Étude expérimentale ⓘ
Thématique :
Biomécanique ⓘ